Birria Tacos

Step 1: Wear gloves if you are sensitive to working with chiles.

Step 2: Trim and discard the stems. Cut the chiles lengthwise, remove and discard the seeds, then roughly chop into 1–1.5 cm pieces.

Step 3: Put the chopped chiles in a large saucepan of boiling water. Simmer rapidly for 10 minutes to soften, until the flesh is mushy and the skin is soft, though still intact.

Step 4: Reserve 1/2 cup of the chile-simmering water. Drain the chiles in a sieve and lightly press out the remaining liquid.

Step 5: Put the cooked chiles, reserved 1/2 cup chile water and remaining adobo ingredients in a tall jug large enough to fit the head of a stick blender. Blend for 20 seconds, until as smooth as possible; the mixture will not be completely smooth. You can also use a small food processor, NutriBullet or blender.

Step 6: Heat the oil in a large, heavy-based pot over high heat. Add half the beef and sear each side until dark golden brown, about 1–1 1/2 minutes per side. Transfer to a bowl and repeat with the remaining beef.

Step 7: Add the adobo paste to the same pot and stir it in the oil for 2 minutes. Lower the heat if it spits aggressively.

Step 8: Add all the birria braising ingredients and stir, then add the beef. Bring to a boil, then lower the heat until the liquid simmers very gently, with small bubbles now and then. Cover and cook for 2 1/2 hours, or until the beef shreds easily. Short ribs take 3–3 1/2 hours.

Step 9: Transfer the beef to a clean pan and shred it well. Add the 1/2 teaspoon of salt and toss to distribute.

Step 10: Skim as much of the red oil floating on the braising liquid as possible, ideally at least 6 tbsp, and put it in a separate bowl. This is the birria oil.

Step 11: Pour 1 cup of the braising liquid, the birria consommé, into a large non-stick pan over medium-high heat. Simmer for 15 seconds, then add all the beef and toss until it has absorbed the sauce, with almost none pooled in the pan. Return the beef to the shredding pan, scraping the non-stick pan clean.

Step 12: Taste the consommé and check the seasoning, adding salt if needed. It should be slightly salty for dipping, but not too salty to drink as a small cup of soup. Keep warm for serving.

Step 13: Heat 1 teaspoon of birria oil in the same non-stick pan over medium-low heat. Put in a tortilla and move it around to colour the underside red. Once soft, about 10 seconds, transfer it to a work surface red side down; there is no need to flip it. Repeat twice more, heating 1/2 teaspoon of birria oil for each tortilla.

Step 14: Spread cheese over half of each tortilla. Top with beef, then onion and coriander.

Step 15: Fold each tortilla over and pan-fry 3 tacos at a time in the same pan over medium-high heat for 2 minutes per side, until golden-red and crispy.

Step 16: Remove from the pan and serve hot with the birria consommé for dipping.