Coquillettes au Jambon (French Macaroni and Cheese with Ham)

Step 1: Bring a large pot of water and salt to a boil. Cook the pasta according to the packet instructions, stirring a few times at the beginning so the pasta does not stick together.

Step 2: Scoop out 1 cup of pasta cooking water, then drain the pasta and briefly rinse it under cold water. Set it aside and keep the pot for the sauce.

Step 3: Using the pasta pot, melt the butter over medium heat. Add the flour and whisk for 2 minutes. It will look thick and pasty at first, then loosen into a smooth, glossy paste. Whisk into the corners of the pot and do not let the roux brown; reduce the heat if needed.

Step 4: Add half of the hot milk to the roux while whisking vigorously; it will thicken very quickly. Once smooth, slowly pour in the remaining milk while continuing to whisk. Whisk for 30 seconds to 1 minute, until the sauce is smooth and lump-free. It should be thick enough for a path drawn through the middle with a spatula to hold briefly before slowly sinking back.

Step 5: Add the salt, pepper and nutmeg. Stir to combine.

Step 6: Stir in the Gruyère and whisk until fully melted. Then stir in the ham with a wooden spoon.

Step 7: Pour in 1/2 cup of the reserved pasta cooking water and stir until silky. Bring the sauce back to a simmer. It will be quite runny and will thicken when the pasta is added.

Step 8: Add the drained pasta and stir well until fully coated. The sauce will thicken slightly and cling to the macaroni. Add more pasta water if the sauce gets too thick.

Step 9: Serve immediately while hot and creamy. Grind extra black pepper on top just before serving, if desired.