Chocolate Frosting

Step 1: Heat 3/4 cup of cream in a heatproof bowl until hot, but do not let it boil. Whisk in the cocoa powder until smooth and lump-free; it will form a thin paste. Set aside for 5 minutes to bloom the cocoa.

Tip: Blooming helps bring out the chocolate flavor.

Step 2: Put the chocolate chips in a heatproof bowl and microwave in bursts until smooth: heat on high for 30 seconds, stir, then continue in 20-second increments.

Step 3: Add the cocoa paste to the melted chocolate and whisk until combined and smooth. Cool on the counter for 15 minutes; the mixture will thicken. If a skin forms on the surface, it will beat into the frosting later.

Step 4: In a separate large bowl, beat the softened butter with a handheld mixer until soft and fluffy, about 1 1/2 minutes on high. Add the icing sugar and beat for about 30 seconds, until the mixture resembles wet sand. Add the cream cheese and beat for about 30 seconds, until smooth and creamy and no yellow butter bits remain.

Tip: Stop beating once the mixture is smooth.

Step 5: Add all the cooled chocolate paste and beat until combined.

Step 6: Cover the bowl with cling wrap and refrigerate for 2 hours, until thoroughly cold. You can leave the beaters in the bowl while it chills.

Tip: The chilling helps give the frosting structure. It can stay in the fridge at this stage for days.

Step 7: Remove the bowl from the fridge. Add the remaining cold cream and the salt. Beat on high for 1 1/2 minutes, or until stiff peaks form. The frosting will look a little pale; it darkens once piped or spread.

Step 8: Use the frosting immediately to cover cakes or pipe onto cupcakes. Spread it with a knife or offset spatula, or transfer it to a piping bag. For frosted cakes, refrigerate for at least 30 minutes before serving to help the frosting set.

Step 9: Once set, the frosting holds its shape in the fridge without deflating and does not harden. It can be served fridge-cold. When kept out of the fridge, keep it out of the sun; it melts more easily than buttercream but is more stable than whipped cream.