Supersized, Super-Soft Chocolate Chip Cookies

Step 1: In a large bowl, combine the brown sugar and salt. Set aside.

Step 2: Brown the butter: In a saucepan over medium-high heat, melt the butter. After several minutes, it will sizzle and may spatter. Continue cooking, swirling the pan regularly, for about 5 to 7 minutes, until the butter is dark golden brown and brown bits collect at the bottom of the pan. The butter will stop sizzling and may have a layer of foam on the surface.

Step 3: Immediately pour the browned butter over the sugar mixture, scraping in the brown bits, and whisk vigorously to combine. The mixture will remain lumpy rather than smooth. Set the empty saucepan aside to cool slightly.

Tip: Whisking helps dissolve the sugar slightly and creates a shiny surface on the baked cookies.

Step 4: Make the tangzhong: In the same saucepan, combine the milk with 3 tablespoons (23g) of the bread flour. Whisk until no lumps remain.

Step 5: Place the saucepan over low heat. Cook, stirring regularly with a whisk and then a flexible spatula, until the mixture thickens, becomes paste-like, and starts to come together into one mass, about 2 to 3 minutes.

Step 6: Remove the saucepan from the heat and transfer the tangzhong directly to the bowl with the butter and sugar. Whisk until mostly smooth; a few lumps are fine.

Step 7: Add the eggs and vanilla and whisk until smooth.

Step 8: Measure the remaining 2 1/2 cups plus 1 tablespoon (307g) bread flour by gently spooning it into a cup and sweeping off any excess. Add it to the bowl, then add the baking powder and baking soda. Stir with a whisk or flexible spatula until well combined and no dry spots remain.

Step 9: Place the bowl uncovered in the refrigerator and let the mixture cool for 10 to 15 minutes.

Step 10: While the batter cools, use a serrated knife to roughly chop the chocolate into coarse pieces. Avoid chopping it too finely, as small pieces will melt when mixed into the dough.

Step 11: Remove the dough from the refrigerator and fold in the chopped chocolate. Cover the bowl and return it to the refrigerator for 24 to 72 hours to let the flavors intensify.

Step 12: When ready to bake, remove the chilled dough from the refrigerator and let it rest at room temperature for about 10 to 15 minutes to warm slightly. Meanwhile, preheat the oven to 350°F with a rack in the center.

Step 13: Scoop the dough into 85g to 90g portions; a level scone and muffin scoop works well. If scooping by hand, make mounds about 2 1/4 inches in diameter. For smaller, still-generous cookies, scoop 50g portions using a jumbo cookie scoop.

Step 14: Arrange the dough portions on parchment-lined baking sheets, spacing them 3 to 4 inches apart. Five dough balls fit on a half-sheet pan. Arrange 90g portions in a 2-1-2 pattern, or 50g portions in a slightly staggered 4 x 2 pattern. For consistently shaped cookies, roll each portion into a smooth ball before baking.

Step 15: Bake large (90g) cookies for 18 to 22 minutes or smaller (50g) cookies for 15 to 18 minutes, until the edges are set and the cookies are browned. Rotate the pan halfway through baking for even browning; for best results, bake one pan at a time. Remove the cookies from the oven and let them rest on the baking sheets for at least 15 minutes, until cool enough to handle.

Step 16: Store leftover cookies covered for up to 5 days. Their slightly crisp edges will soften while the cookies maintain a soft texture. Freeze baked cookies for longer storage.